The Friday Dress



Hey guys! I’m the second stop of the exciting and most epic Sewing Block Party blog tour, happening all through November! 31 bloggers from all over the world get to share their take on their favorite Petit A Petit patterns. For my post, I introduce to you the Friday dress by Petit A Petit + Family! I was also able to test this lovely pattern, and let me tell yah- we are hooked over here! (This pattern will be released very soon, I’ll make sure to update the link right here!).

The Friday Dress has so many fun options within the pattern. I went with option A and long sleeves. I also sized my daughter up a little according to her measurements to the size 3-4 so she would have a little room to grow. (She’s 3 years old). I’m really happy with the final fit, I didn’t make any pattern adjustments.

(* Just a note: My back pleat is an error due to testing, it should be flipped the other way, it’s since been corrected in the pattern!).



My fabric is from Hancock’s fabric, which is currently rebuilding their company into an online only based fabric store. This fabric was actually left over from a dress I made for myself last year. I’m so glad I had enough to make my daughter a matching dress!



I love all the details of this dress: the adorable collar, pocket, waistband, elastic sleeve cuff, and the gathered skirt. There are too many good combination options within this pattern. Now I need to try it in a few other versions!

This was my first ever Petit A Petit make, and I’m obsessed, why have I waited so long!? Now I just have to try the new Loveralls pattern, released just yesterday. Don’t forget to take a look at all of the other fabulous patterns they offer in their shop!


Stay tuned and catch the rest of this amazing tour continuing on through the whole month of November! You can find the whole line up below:

Nov. 1st – Sweetkm | Nov. 2nd – The Sara Project | Nov. 3rd – La Folie | Nov. 4th – Hello Holli | Nov. 5th – Chalk and Notch | Nov. 6th – Sewing Like Mad | Nov. 7th – Beatnik Kids | Nov. 8th – Stitched Together | Nov. 9th – Coffee and Thread | Nov. 10th – Made by Toya | Nov. 11th – Stahlarbeit | Nov. 12th – Lily en Woody | Nov. 13th – My Petite Sophie | Nov. 14th – Handmade Frenzy | Nov. 15th – Paisley Roots | Nov. 16th – While she was sleeping | Nov. 17th – My Cozy co | Nov. 18th – A Jennuine Life | Nov. 19th – Knee Socks and Goldilocks | Nov. 20th – Sanae Ishida | Nov. 21st – Little Cumquat | Nov. 22nd – Gaafmachine | Nov. 23rd – Craftstorming | Nov. 24th – Made by Sara | Nov. 25th – Buzzmills | Nov. 26th – Bartacks and Singletrack | Nov. 27th – Moineau & Petit Pois | Nov. 28th – Naii | Nov. 29th – Just Add Fabric | Nov. 30th – Mie Made Memories | Enjoyful Makes | Dec. 1st – Petit a Petit and Family

… and one more thing!



Hepburn Shorts


Hey guys! I recently went on a little vacation to Mexico, and I made myself some linen shorts to wear for the beach. (And for summer in general, I have a feeling we will be spending lots of time at the pool this year).


The pattern I used is called the Hepburn Shorts by Pattern Emporium.

I used a linen fabric in a fun tropical print I found at Hancock Fabrics. (They are currently going out of business, if you’re lucky you can find some on sale!). I went to my local store over the weekend and they still had some of this print left in stock, and for a great price!


These shorts were very quick to put together, and I had a lot of fun making them too. The fit is great! I didn’t have to adjust the pattern at all. I did the elastic waistband option with pockets for a more casual, beachy look.

Pattern Emporium does a GREAT job at walking you through each step. They have great photos they took for each step, and different links that send you to different parts of the instructions making everything quick and easy to navigate. This is a great beginner-intermediate pattern.

Happy Summer!


Anthro-Inspired Beach Caftan




Recently, I took a little trip down to Mexico with my family. I really needed some new cover-ups to wear while I was down there (And also for summer, I have a feeling I will be spending most of my days at the pool now that my kids are a little bit older this year). I found a few caftan style cover-ups on (no longer available online), and decided to make my own, with handmade tassels and all. You guys, this is the EASIEST sewing tutorial ever. My fabric is a gauze from Hancock Fabrics, and it’s probably deeply discounted now if you can find it in your local store. You can find the full tutorial on BERNINA’S blog,

I wore it for a week straight while in Mexico, and I felt pretty fab in it too. It’s a great cover-up that will flatter any body type. You can also embellish it with pom poms, or even pre-made tassels too. Lot’s of options with this one!

Enjoy and happy Memorial Weekend everyone!



Pieced Envelope Pillow with Piping







Every year, spring comes and all I want to do is freshen up my living space. I love this tutorial because you can use pillow forms you already have, and simply recover them. I decided to go for a pieced geometrical look for my new pillow covers. I will show you how I pieced my pillow cover fronts, made my pillow covers using an envelope method (no zippers here), and if you choose, how to use piping to give your pillows an added lift.


Pillow Forms (I really love the down pillow forms from ikea)

Fabric- Based off pillow measurements, you will need the exact measurement of your pillow for the front (example: 20″ x 20″), and exact measurement of pillow for back plus 6″ added to the length (example: 20″ x 26″). I bought 71/2 yards of fabric for 6 pillows ranging in size, and had a little left over. All of my fabrics are from Hancock Fabrics. You could also use fabric you already have on hand if your going to piece them together like I did.

Piping- (optional)

First off, I drew up some ideas for 7 new pillows. I drew them using 4×4 squares. This is what I came up with:


Next I made life size patterns of these designs. You will make your pattern the exact size as your pillow. So if your pillow is 20″ x 20″, thats how big your square pattern piece will be. Then draw out your pattern.

Before you cut out your pattern pieces, decide which fabrics you will use for which pieces. I cut out one piece at a time so I could keep track of everything. So cut one piece out of pattern, and then cut that same piece out of your fabric. (Make sure to cut a seam allowance around any edge that will be attached to another piece. This is every inside edge).


Sew your pieces together, and iron as you go. Done!


Now we are ready to make our whole envelope pillow cover. Now we need to cut out the backing for our pillows. This is really simple. So we have our 20″ x 20″ pillow face. (pictured above). The backing will be 20″ wide x 20″ + 6″ long. so 20″ wide X 26″ long. No matter how big your pillow is, you will just add 6 inched in length to the original pillow length measurement.

so here is my 20″ x 26″ back piece:


Cut it exactly in half:


Finish the two inside edges, (the ones we just cut) by ironing at 1/4″, and again at 1/4″, and sew to finish. (use thread that matches, I used white so you can see it for the tutorial. (sorry I used a different color fabric here):


Now you have all your pieces ready for the last step. At this point if you would like to add piping, scroll down to the section titled PIPING.

Right sides together, lay your two back pieces on top of the front piece, and pin.


Sew at 1/2″, and trim your corners. Flip inside out and insert pillow!

PIPING: Now if you would like to take it up a notch, you can add piping. I think the piping gives the pillow a more professional finish. I did a mix of pillows with piping and without piping. Here is how you insert your piping, it’s super easy:

Start out by pining you piping to your pillow cover front piece. Get your zipper foot ready.


I just started out with one pin to get going, and just used my hands to keep the piping in place as I went around. Make sure you are sewing right up against the cording!


Keep sewing until you are a few inches away from your corner. Clip along your piping edge where the piping will be sewn to the corner. Slowly sew around corner edge, staying close to cording:


Keep sewing just like this until you are a few inches from you began sewing:


Unpick the two piping edges to reveal the cording. Cut your two cording pieces to match up and lay flat against one another.


Wrap the piping fabric around the two pieces of cording so it lays flat, and pin it all together. Finish sewing.


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Now lay your two back pieces and front piece right sides together, and use your pins to create a visual trail right up against your piping.


Sew all the way around using your zipper foot again, and staying right up against piping.


Clip your edges. Turn right side out, and insert pillow form!


I love the way these new pillows brighten my home. I’m ready for ya spring! Enjoy guys!

Mingo and Grace Dress in Chalk Pink Wool

gold chalk dress

To kick off love month, I’m sharing my second Mingo and Grace Dress. This time I went with the gathered option, and used a beautiful chalk pink wool from Hancock Fabrics. Its no longer available online, but I’ve seen a lot more wool options in their stores. (And they are all on sale!).

Gathering the skirt part of this dress with wool was a little difficult. I found it easier to split the skirt up into four sections, gathering one section at a time, and pinning. I just love everything about this dress. I put the whole thing together in two nights, it’s a really quick make! You can find the pattern I used here.





Folkloric Dress + Sewing Tutorial







The other day I was walking through Hancock fabrics, looking for some denim. I found this great Denim Mexican Poncho Autumn Cotton Fabric, and knew right away that I had to make something out of it. I love the ethnic, folky print of this fabric, and the colors are so on point for fall. I decided to go with a dress: an easy fitted bodice and gathered skirt. I used two patterns that I really like, and mashed them up to create this dress. I used McCall’s M5927 for the bodice front and back, and Simplicity 2444 for the sleeves. You could use any basic bodice and sleeve pattern to create this dress. I created the neckline facing and skirt myself, and I’ll tell you how!

For the neckline facing, simply line up your two bodice pieces shoulder to shoulder, and trace the neckline edges in one continuous line, and make it about 2-2 1/2 inches wide.

For the skirt, measure your waist, then times it by 2. (This is your width). I divided this number in half and cut two pieces- a front and back. (I needed to do this in order to get my stripes going vertical, you can skip this step depending on your fabric, and cut one long piece). Cut your back piece in half again, so you can add in a zipper. For length, measure from your waist to where you would like your dress to end, add 3″ for seam allowance. I always cut the length a little longer than I want so I can decide where the length looks best after the dress is finished.

Materials needed:

-2 1/2 – 3 yards of fabric

-20-22″ zipper

-matching thread


-basic sewing tools

Lets begin!

  1. Mark + sew darts. I always like to mark with thread using the pattern, then gently remove the pattern and cut threads, threads still intact in fabric. Using a ruler and chalk I mark where the darts will be on the wrong side of the fabric.


Tip: Start sewing from the bottom (back stitch) and move towards the tip. Once you get to the tip, do NOT backstitch, leave long threads and hand tie a knot. Once you are finished it will look like this:

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2. Iron darts towards the outside edges. Repeat for bodice back.

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3. Pin + sew bodice side edges together, RST.

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4. Iron seam, finish seam. I just used a zig zag stitch to finish my seams.

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5. Pin + sew shoulder edges together. RST.

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6. Prep the sleeves. Mark your center top with chalk or a marker. Also mark about 1″ from armsyce ends as shown below. I used yellow pins.

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7. Baste sleeve at 1/4″ + 1/2″ from yellow pin to yellow pin. Leave long threads on either end for pulling.

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8. Sew each sleeve RST.

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9. Pin sleeve to arm hole. Make sure to line up seams and centers using your marking we just made with chalk.

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10. Pull threads gently and gather evenly on either side of the armhole until everything fits just right. I did not have to ease that much, just a little until sleeve fit just right. Sew at 5/8″, trim seam, finish with a zig zag stitch all around the edge. When you’re finished it will look like this:

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11. Prep your neckline facing by finishing the outer edge. I used a zig zag stitch.

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12. Pin your neckline facing to bodice neckline, RST. Line up centers and edges. Sew at 1/2″.

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13. Flip neckline facing to the inside of the bodice, and iron over about 1/8- 1/4 ” to hide facing from front view. Using a needle and thread, hand tack facing to seams and center front.

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14. Prep skirt. Sew side seams together. Sew back seam together stopping about 7 1/2- 8″ from the waistline in order to leave an opening for the zipper, back stitch. Iron seams, finish seams.

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15. Once the skirt is sewn together, prep for gathering. Baste 1/2″ + 5/8″, again leave long threads for pulling. Pin skirt front center to bodice front center, pin back edges of skirt to back edges of bodice. Gently pull threads until gathers are evenly distributed and everything fits in place. Make sure to line up side seams of skirt and bodice. Sew at 5/8″.

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16. Unpick any basting threads that show on the front of the dress.

17. Sew in invisible zipper, follow instructions on packaging. FInish off zipper and neckline edge by folding zipper tape backwards to the seam, and hand tacking down.

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18. Hem sleeves and dress bottom edge to desired lengths.



Anthro Inspired Buffalo Check Pleated Midi Skirt Sewing Tutorial + Easy No Mark Pleat Method






A few months ago I pinned this Anthropologie skirt, and I’ve been on the hunt for a great buffalo check fabric ever since in attempt to recreate it! Last week I came across a great brown + black buffalo check cotton fabric at Hancock fabrics that was just perfect for this project. I decided to make my skirt with pleats instead of gathers because I really like the constructed look pleats add to a garment. I chose to go for a midi length skirt (a big thing for Fall this year), just like the Anthro skirt.

You guys, this skirt is SOOO easy! I discovered a new method for pleating with just pins (no chalk, pens, etc.), and it’s so fast- I whipped this skirt up in one night. Let’s get started!


  1. Measure your waist. Mine is 28.5″
  2. Waist/# of desired pleats= pleat width (28.5 waist/10 pleats=2.85″ pleats)
  3. Waist X 3 (box pleats need 3x the width of pleat to make)= fabric needed
  4. My equation looked like this: 28.5 x 3 = 87.5″
  5. add 2″ for seam allowance
  6. total fabric needed 87.5″ + 2″ = 89.5″ of fabric
  7. I added 1/4 yd. more for my waistband so all together I needed 2 1/2 yards. (I ended up with 3 yards, I always play it safe a grab a little extra).


(I’m apologizing for my tutorial photos in advance, unfortunately I am only able to sew at night which makes for bad lighting).

-Measure out a piece of pattern paper that measures HALF of your needed width. This will give you a front and back piece, so you will cut 2 of these out of your fabric.  (You can buy this pattern paper at the Doctors office, its the same paper they lay on the exam table!). So my needed width was 89.5″ then divided by 2 came out to 44.75″. After you measure out your width,  draw out your pleats. On each end of the paper, mark your 1/2″ seam allowance. For each pleat you will need your pleat length to the right and left of it. I drew dotted lines to represent the fold lines. You fold every line to the left of the pleat to the right, and every line to the right of the pleat to the left.

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When you’re done it will look like this:

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Next you need to cut out your fabric. Lay your pattern out on the WRONG SIDE of the fabric. Place a pin on EVERY line drawn on your pattern (but not the dotted lines). Your pattern will not reach your needed length, so make sure to cut your fabric to your desired skirt length (adding 2″ for seam allowance on the hem). You will need 2 of these. Mine looked like this when I was done:

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While keeping your pattern pinned to your fabric, flip the whole rectangle over so you are now looking at the RIGHT SIDE of your fabric. It should look like this:


Now for the fun part! Before you start pleating, don’t forget the added 1/2″ on each end for your seam allowance. Simply match each pin to pin, remembering that the left side of the pleat face folds to the right, and the right side of the pleat face folds to the left. As you match your pins, make sure to repin pleats in place. As you do each pleat, gently slide your pattern paper out of place -eventually it will be completely unpinned from your fabric once you have pleated the entire piece of fabric.


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When you have finished this step on BOTH front and back pieces, it will look like this:


(NOT PICTURED: Baste 1/2″ on each waistline edge on both your pleated front and back skirt pieces).

(NOT PICTURED: Sew side seams together at 1/2″, decide which side you would like your zipper to be on and make sure to stop about 5-6″ from the top to leave room for where your zipper will go, back stitch. Iron and finish your seam allowances (I just used a zig zag stitch).

Now you need to create your waistband: I didn’t create a pattern for this piece, its just a rectangle so it’s super easy to cut out just by measuring. To figure out how your waistband should measure start by taking your waist measurement (this will be your width), and decide how thick you would like your waist band to be, multiply it by 2 and add 1″ for seam allowance. So all together my waistband length measured 5 1/2″ in length. Cut your rectangle. (Mine was 29″ X 5 1/2″).  Iron in half, WST.

Once your waistband is cut out, pin ONE edge RST to your skirt waistline, leaving a loose edge. Make sure to line up and pin centers and edges first. Sew at 1/2″.

Next Iron the loose side of your waistband at 1/2″. It will look like this:

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Flip the waistband over to the inside of your skirt, and pin in place. It should just barely cover the unfinished seam allowance.


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Now, grab a needle and matching thread. Whip stitch along the edge of your waist band end to end. (You can also stitch in the ditch). I always prefer to hand stitch. Once you are finished, iron waistband.

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Now you need to insert your invisible zipper. You will need a 7-9″ invisible zipper in a coordinating color. I just followed the instructions included with my zipper, very simple. I finished the top of my zipper/ seam allowance edge with a zig zag stitch. It will look like this:


Finish off your zipper edge by pinning your loose zipper tape sticking over the top of your skirt to the back of the seam allowance.



Fold your seam allowance back over, and hand tack along the edges of your zipper edge.


Once you have done this, it will look like this:

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And lastly, finish by hemming your skirt. I folded and ironed the bottom edge at 1/2″, and then folded and ironed again at 1 1/2″. Pin in place, and hand tack your hemline in place using a blind hem stitch. You can also do this on your machine, I just really enjoy doing it by hand. Thats all there is to it!


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